"old" 2002 270FV vs. "new" 2002 270FV

[NO GIN]

Very insightful, helps me a little. My boat is a 2003 yet it's manufacture date is 2002. Where do I fit in? I have noticed that others with the same year as mine and apparent swim platform configuration actually sit a few inches above the water line where mine sits in the water. Was there variations of the bolt on swim platform on the later 02 builds/03 models to get the platform out of the water?

[ParkRode360]

Hey, Al -- are there brackets available or can be made that can lift No Gin's platform to have it sit higher?

[alswagg]

There were no changes in the platform height or mounting location of the 2002 production i  guess early 2003 model year.  I am going by memory on the dates and I sometimes get confused between when a engineering change and a actuall production year is.  I guess on my previous post I was dateing when the changes actually were started or went into effect.  Not actually the model year   ie 2003 model built in 2002.   Since the early platforms were bolted to the hull only, there were no brackest or support arms on this platform. 
Again, trim pin location is extreamly crittical to all Bravo drives in Rinker boats.  The pin is aft and the spacer is forward, this allows for more negitive trim.
Proper prop pitch is also critical. I have experimented with the 21 XR prop set with great success  this is a 4/3 blade BIII prop set.
Trim tabs with negitive wings also help alot, add a 3/8 spacer to ram lower mount too.  To save some money, you can flip over the positive wing tabs, or up wings, but you have to install a 1/8" spacer plate behind the tab hinge mount,  this is due to the way the hinge is built.  But it works just fine in this configuration.
Of course proper running engine is a must for any performance and economy of any boat. 

Good luck  Al

[alswagg]

One more item, smooth bottom paint or none at all.  The fastest and most economical is clean gel coat.  VC 17 is great for smooth bottom paint, but is very costly.  Sailboaters have great ideas for getting smooth bottom paint.  Ironically seams like that is the only item they ever seem to spend money on.   Al

[rdlegacy]

Al...., good insight on the design issues.  I would assume you work for, or know someone who works for Rinker.

We own a 2000 270 and enjoy the boat very much.  We have cruised all of the great lakes having taken 2 to 3 week cruises and have logged thousands of miles abord.  In addition, we have towed our 270 from the Apostles north, down to Pensacola, and a few larger lakes in between. 

A well maintained boat, regardless of year, can still perform extremly well.  The 270 was a great design.  I was sorry to see Rinker abandon that design.

[NO GIN]

One more item, smooth bottom paint or none at all.  The fastest and most economical is clean gel coat.  VC 17 is great for smooth bottom paint, but is very costly.  Sailboaters have great ideas for getting smooth bottom paint.  Ironically seams like that is the only item they ever seem to spend money on.   Al

Al according to Interlux VC 17 is really for race/high performance boats and not really meant as an anti foul. What's your take on this? I am going through the trouble of sanding all the way to the fiberglass and starting fresh. I will suck it up and spend the $ for the best anti foul and performance paint available as long as I feel confident it will remain free of growth and not create drag.

Thanks again for all your help!

[alswagg]

For 0 growth, very hard to get.  But I would suggest checking with the Petit and Interlux sales professionals in your area.  They will know the best paint for the local water you frequent.  In My area, we use Petit Hydrocoat, spray application.  For some though we use the VC 17 paint.  Minimal growth,  actually just a stain, pressure wash comes right off.  Any paint must be prepped propely for proper adhesion.  After sanding with 80 grit, wash bottom with fresh water and scrub brush. 

Oh, I do not work for Nautique Global.
Al