Engine cover replacement

[cableguygreg]

I have a 1998 232cc and the engine cover/sun pad is starting to rot at the piano hinge. Has anyone had to replace one? If so, what kind of plywood did you use? Where did you get it recovered in vinyl? I am sure that it will be a somewhat easy job, but when I look at some of the plywood that they have at Lowes and Home Depot, it is rather warped. I don't want to put this away for the winter only to get it out and have the cover bowed.

[PartsMan]

Marine Plywood is available a larger lumber yards. Just so you dont get sticker shock a 4x8x3/4" sheet will cost $100-120

[alswagg]

Another solution is to buy #1 exterior grade, not treated, plywood.  This will be straight and true plywood.  Resin coat both sides and edges of the cut piece of ply.  You can buy good quality resin at most hardware stores or Napa locations.  Basic mixing and hand brushing.  plus you get the nice smell of fresh resin being applied.   Ahh what a smell.   lol    Good luck   Al

[cableguygreg]

Thanks for the info. I like the idea of resin coating the board. I think that route will be cheaper. I have this project and a few others for the winter. I am pulling all of the seat bottoms out and having the foam replaced, since it is getting a little flat. I am also having those same cushions recovered since the fabric is starting to weaken. Fortunately for me a fellow boater at my marina does work like that.

[Lofty]

I had a similar problem with my '93 202 but far worse. HOWEVER. May I suggest you bring the cover inside make sure it is totally dry. and reinforce/stabilize with fibreglass resin. I did this two seasons ago and it is holding up very well (Naturally you have to remove all the uphostelry staples, binding edging and etc. and lay bare the wood. I got it all back together very carefully and only a trained eye can tell PS: I had no previous experience at this. Cheers PPS I had about 2 sq ft of punky board to repair.

[Gene]

Cableguy. When you get around to replacing and covering the new plywood you might consider adding some lightweight aluminum "L" shaped reinforcment to the under side and thru bolt it before you cover it. My sunpad plywood is warped on the edges where the gas shocks mount to the plywood. These aluminum "L" channel strips will keep it straight and give you more strength.

[jsmagnum]

Don't replace with wood---replace with a new composite material, it wil never rot, even marine ply will rot. Check with your area and see what is available.

[Gene]

I cant think of any composite light weght like ply and as strong. My 97 isnt rotting, I wonder why yours is already. After a days having fun with the kids in and out all day over the pad, I always let mine sit overnight with the hatch open to drain all the water from between the pad and the board. I am fortunate enough to have a barn to keep it in, but you certainly can leave it open for a few hours in the sun to dry. Still racking my head on what to replace it with.

[cableguygreg]

I wish I knew why it is rotting. The only place that it is bad is along the piano hinge in the back of the boat, which is where all of the water runs to when you lift the cover up. It has been the summer of problems, so at this point nothing surprises me. The only thing that I can think of is the old cockpit cover used to sit on the sunpad/cover, so the water wouldn't drain off of it when it rained. That probably started the rotting a few years ago. I corrected that problem when I got a new cover maid up 5 years ago. I got the engine cover out of the boat before I put it in storage, but I haven't had time to cut a new one yet. I like your idea of adding some angle aluminum to the thing for strength. I guess it is officially a winter project since the boat is in storage for the winter.

[Gene]

We need to figure out a way to prevent this. Does it have stainless fasteners or did it have steel that started the corrosion process? If I had to make a new one I think I would glue/epoxy a piece of aluminum to the back to attach the new piano hinge to so you dont have to drill into the wood. I also think the hinge is just steel also, perhaps there is a way to fab some aluminum or hard plastic hinges. Anything you use that is porous will rot. Maybe go to a dealer and just peak under some engine hatch's for ideas, beware of coming home with a new boat.

[Black_Diamond]

1. Seal the edges as noted above.
2. Seal the fastener holes!  You can screw in the fasteners and then remove them, wrap the screw threads in teflon tape and then fill the hole with resin/epoxy/4200 and re-insert the screw.  This will seal the hole and prevent the screw for being glued in.

[cableguygreg]

I figure that if it lasted me 13 years this time, I will be happy with another 13 years. It has stainless steel screws and the hinge is made from stainless, so it had to have been dampness from the cover laying on it that started the rotting. I agree with sealing the edges, and the entire board. I will also drill some holes through the board to help it breath. That is a great idea on sealing the fasteners.

[bdhpilot]

I just replaced mine, Home depot ordered marine grade plywood for me, about $65. Next I went to the hardware store, and bought new T nuts, and Machine screws 1/4 20, I believe, stainless steel of course. I removed the upholstery and foam from the old wood and used it as a template, then cut, drilled new wood, installed T nuts and screws. Next I rounded the edge of the plywood very slightly around the circumference with my router, (the upholstery guy told me to do this for him) Then I went to Walmart, bought some fiberglass resin, and coated the entire sheet, both sides, two coats on the edges. 1 Qt $12, barely enough, I applied it using cheap paint brushes, (harbor freight .49) I applied a little marine grease to the screws and screwed them into the T nuts before applying the resin, so I wouldn't seal up my threads in the T nuts. I talked to four different upholstery guys, this was what I ended up with. We will see in 10 years. Hope this helps.