Engine Hatch Lift Motor

[ruwallydog]

Since I purchased my boat the motor that runs the engine hatch struggles to completely open which results in me to then attempt to 'help' and pull up on the hatch while someone else pushes the button on the helm.

Since I do not always have someone else with me on the boat when going through my checklist this was problematic so I recently purchased a portable charger so I could lift the hatch by attaching to the poles at the battery panel. To my surprise when I connect in this manner the hatch goes up on its own with no problem. My immediate thought was that I had a battery issue so I had a technician come and check out all the batteries and they all tested OK.

So I am confused to what exactly the problem might be? Any thoughts or comments would be appreciated.

Best!

-kurt

[sailor]

On my 06-342 I replaced a circuit breaker in the battery box (Stbd side aft).
Direct 12 volts to the terminals worked.

[raybo3]

Not sure if Rinker uses a relay to power up the motor or just across the line switch. My guess is a bad connection at switch or relay.

[Just in Time]

if it would be the relay, than it would not go up all the way with the extra battery either...it is confusing since your batteries checked out ok....did you check your small oil reservoir for the lift. I always top mine off once a year or so with left over engine oil....don't ask me where the oil disapears to, as my bilge is as clean as can be...

[raybo3]

The connections at the battery switch box go stright to the motor. Thats why you swap leads to make it go up or down...

[ruwallydog]

Thanks for the responses...

I was not aware there was an oil reservoir on the lift motor so I will check that out. However I don't think that is the root of the issue, but I will check it out nonetheless.

The swithch/relay seems to be a more likely culprit. Is there a way I can check to be sure?

Best!

[frodo13056]

On my 08 320, there is a zerk fitting at the base of the shaft just above the motor - my guess is that is provides lubrication to the ball screw mechanisim.
If your lift works fine from the battery booster connected to the battery box terminals then you have a poor connection or under sized wiring from the helm switch. There is no relay (at least not on my 320 that I've seen).
You can do check of the switch by popping the switch and running a new wire directly from the battery to the switch and back to the hatch motor - basically bypassing the factory wiring. Make sure that your ground is good as well. If it works fine, then you have a wiring / connection issue from the battery to the switch with the factory wiring.

[raybo3]

Frodo very interesting comment. I got the relay idea because the wiring looks like 16 gauge (maybe 14 did not look that close at it). I know the motor is not that big but the hatch is pretty heavy so I am sure the current draw is pretty good. The switch is not that beefy either. An easy way to check this is to put a clamp on amp meter around the wire at the switch. A relay would draw next to nothing. The motor would be pretty good. Now you have me thinking.....LOL

[frodo13056]

Raybo - now you have me thinking!! I've checked the hatch wiring before on my 320 and saw that the battery box terminals are (probably) 14 or 16 gauge.......and I've seen the wiring at the helm as I've had the helm switch panel off several times when installing my Lowrance stuff but now, I don't recall what gauge wiring was on the switches 
Maybe there is a relay and I just haven't seen it (yet).......

[raybo3]

You know another way to check real easy, disconnect the motor and listen for the relay to click. If you hear it then chase down the sound till you find the relay. BTW dont mean to ruin your night.....LOL

[Black_Diamond]

14 gauge wiring will let you run a 3,000lb rated actuator.  These actuators have small motors that us gears to amplify the torque to the ball screw portion.  The grease lubricates the screw portion, the motor and gear set are lube for life.

You can get some good info at www.warnerlinear.com  Got to give my employer a few props   

[alswagg]

On the old 340 the hatch lift motor has no relay.  the current comes from the helm power to a lift switch,  The basic switch reverses polarity to lower the hatch and connects power to raise.  A relay would be much better.  In later models, 350 and such a relay was intergrated into  the system.  Al

[ruwallydog]

Thanks again to everyone for the help and advice. This is probably the single project that is giving me the most heartburn as I start my punchlist for the Spring. Al confirmed that there is not a realy on this model, so I am going to have to troubleshoot the wiring and the switch, and even possibly add a relay if necessary.

If in fact the switch itseld needs to be replaces does anyone know where I should look for a replacement. Most of the ones I can find online do not match the ones I have on the panel...does that matter? Current switch is a simple rocker style.

Thanks

[alswagg]

I would really recommend installing a couple of relays for the operation,  You can utilize your existing rocker switch for this.  Basically the rocer switch will operate the relay which in turn will operate the ram up and down.  You could even use 2 trim pump relays for this.  You could even copy the wiring from the trim pump, same color code.  Green is down, blue is up.  I bet you could do this yourself for under $30.   Al