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Author Topic: '94 Rinker 26- bilge pump q's...  (Read 802 times)
rinker 26
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« on: June 15, 2006, 10:04:32 AM »

Hi all,

I have a 1994 FV 265 Rinker second year now, and I have few Q's about bilge pump(s). There are 2 pumps, one in engine comp. and second under first step inside. Now, in the cockpit there is ON/OFF switch for BILGE PUMP, and works only when the batteries are ON. My question is, how do I switch bilge to  AUTO mode with batteries OFF???

Thanks very much.

George
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by rinker 26 » Logged
milosusa
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« Reply #1 on: June 15, 2006, 01:53:39 PM »

Hi I think, if your bilge pump have a flood sensor or switch should work even, if a  battery are off. For sure depend how they lay the wiring, but on my old boat bilge was working even with batteries off taking power thru the flood switch hooked directly to batteries . If you do have switch just rise it and you will see, if start running, but not sure how to try sensor inside the pump without  water in the bilge.
milos
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by milosusa » Logged

2006 FV 270
merwin10
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« Reply #2 on: June 15, 2006, 03:15:56 PM »

Most bilge pumps are hard wired to the dc buss that is NOT shut off with the battery switch this buss is for things like this and memory electonics clocks co detectors or fire detectors or you can wire them directly to the battery -

The bilge pump has a float switch which comes on when the water gets high enough - some also use a high water switch to sound an alarm and turn on all bilge pumps - It all depends on how yours is wired! Basically you can wire it any way you like! I don't believe the forward bilge pump has a float switch but it is easy to install one!

Mike -  :wink:
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by merwin10 » Logged

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Captains Call
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« Reply #3 on: June 15, 2006, 07:53:21 PM »

On mine the bilge pumps work on auto with the battery switches in the off position. They must be hardwired to the battery some way.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by Captains Call » Logged

Cory
2006 Clinton Lake Redneck Yacht Club President
------------------------------
Previously owned a 94 265 FV
Now own a 35 ft Crest Houseboat
merwin10
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« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2006, 09:46:19 AM »

Just remember that the three most threats to proper bilge pump usage are:

1- Low voltage and current - use proper size wire to keep the GPH in spec - Use the wire formulas for 3% voltage drop - critical electric components -

2- Restrictions - use smooth bore hose - NOT the ribbed type - and keep the pump output size all the way out  - that means if your pump has a 1 1/8" outlet you need a 1 1/8" hose and thru hull - any restriction will lower the GPH

3- Lift the actual height vertically from the pump to the thru hull - Bilge pumps are rated at zero lift any thing greater than zero reduces the GPH - Remember the bilge pump is of centrifugal design and won't have a high lift factor - mount it flat cause once it sucks air your done, it will not pump air - Your float switch should cut off before the water is so low that the pump sucks air and high enough so that the pump is NOT short cycling -

Hope this helps -

Mike - :wink:

Mike -
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by merwin10 » Logged

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