Overtons
Pages: [1]
Print
Author Topic: need help...vacuum gauge test???  (Read 435 times)
kjrinker94
Swabbie
***
Offline Offline

Location: Mid Michigan
Posts: 81


« on: September 30, 2008, 11:00:30 PM »

So here's where I'm at.  5.0L V8 Mercruiser 2 barrel carb.  I've had a mysterious oil leak all summer.  Added some dye to the crankcase and narrowed it down to the distributor or the rear of the intake manifold where it mates up to the block.  Pulled the manifold on Labor day, scraped it and the heads, replaced the gaskets and applied new rtv on the front and rear sealing surfaces at the cyl. block.  Also added a gasket under the distributor - yes that's right, added a gasket since there wasn't one.  I checked the engine timing prior to getting started and it was at 8 degrees B.T.D.C. which is exactly where mercruiser specs it.  After re-installing the distributor I set the timing to about 8.5 degrees B.T.D.C.  Took the boat out a couple days ago and it ran great except for idle rpm's.  My idle rpm's before I wrenched on it were about 700 rpm.  Now about 900 rpm at idle.  I understand advancing the timing some will increase idle rpm's but I wouldn't expect them to jump up 200.  Another possibility is a vacuum leak - which I doubt but I want  to rule it out.  Where on the carb or intake manifold can I attach the vacuum guage hose?  Can anyone help me out here?  I started the engine tonight on the muffs, let it warm up, rpm's were consistent with the other day - 900rpm at idle so I backed off the idle control screw at the carb - brought it down to 700rpm at idle.  I also checked the engine under a black light and my oil leak is no more.  I'd appreciate your thoughts.

Kevin
Logged
merwin10
Vice Admiral
*******
Offline Offline

Location: Onset Massachusetts
Posts: 1663


« Reply #1 on: October 02, 2008, 10:56:32 AM »

Hi Kevin
Ok first off yes advancing the timing will make a difference in the rpm of the engine! Now with that said on todays engines with the electronic distributors it is better to set the timing at the recommend total advance something like 30 degrees BTDC at 3200 rpm, go with you manufactures specification. Then let the idle rpm fall where it might! To do this you need a special timing light that has an ajustable delay! If you don't have one you can buy or rent one at most Auto Zones stores.

Next the tachs you use on the dash are terribly inaccurate to measure engine RPM you need a mechanics RPM test instrutment. Usually these instruments are accurate to 1 RPM or less. Most gauges on boats are inaccurate because of the enviroment they are in! A little moisture and you get corrosion and the increases the resistance of the electrical connections giving you false indications! The gauges are ok for most applications put not for truely measuring engine performance for setup! Whenever you get an indication that is not normal on a boat guage you must think wiring might be going bad! A good example of this is the twin engine boat one tach might say 3500 RPM while the other may say 3000 RPM but the synchronizer is dead center! Believe the synchronizer as what it does is beats the pulses from each engine against each other and any mismatch is display as percentage of RPM difference, no matter what the the tachs say!

As for your vacuum check again you need a mechanics RPM meter accurate to a couple of RPM. As a few rpm more or less will get off on the wrong foot! On the manifold you will see a small 1/8" plug. remove the plug screw in the spade addapter, plug the vacuum gauge into it, making sure you have a good seal at all connections. It is best to warm up the engine first as the choke circuit will change the vacuum reading!

Finally, seting the RPM out of the water is ok but not the best idea! You need to make sure that you can shift the boat in and out of gear with out stalling! Remember when you shift there is a momentary interupt where the timing circuit is cut to allow for smooth shifting! If you have issues shifting into gear either the RPM or interupt circuit needs attention. The interupt switch on most engines is on the starboard exhaust riser. Look for two control cables going to a quartant and two wires going out the micro-switch is there. Pushing and holding the microswitch will kill the engine!

Hope this help!

Mike - thumbsup
Logged

Best part of boating are the People you meet ......
Talon
Head Moron
Administrator
Fleet Admiral
*****
Offline Offline

Location: Charlotte, NC USA
Boat name: Never Aloan Again, Again
Posts: 3532



WWW
« Reply #2 on: October 02, 2008, 11:05:13 AM »

Hey Mike! Great to see you back!
Logged
Rinker Boat Owners
   

 Logged
Pages: [1]
Print
Jump to:  

TinyPortal v.1.0.6 beta 2 © Bloc