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Author Topic: TRIM TABS  (Read 6593 times)
Talon
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« Reply #45 on: March 06, 2006, 08:38:44 AM »

Good point. The lencos auto retract when you kill the ignition, which is convenient and makes them idiot proof.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by Talon » Logged
slawson
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« Reply #46 on: March 06, 2006, 09:49:46 AM »

In looking at Steve's picture......are you sure that's a 'shim' behind the tab or just some sort of a 'caulk' type material...if you look close enough, the stuff appears to ooze from around the most of the outside of the tab where it is attached to the hull.

I think that area of the hull is pretty flat...I'd be more concerned about getting the actuator at a good angle so as to not be torquing the tab when moving it.

Steve L.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by slawson » Logged
kcsteve
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« Reply #47 on: March 06, 2006, 12:18:07 PM »

Okay guys here's the scoop. The shims/spacers are lacated where the actuator attaches to the hull. Dealer told me there are 2 on each side. They total about a 1/2 in thick. These are to allow for the curvature of the hull so the actuators will not hit or rub against the hull. If you blow up the pic you might be able to see a seam. Steve was right that is some kind of caulk where the tab itself mounts to the boat.  Dealer got the shims from Randy Rinker. If anyone needs his phone number PM me and I'll give it to you. Also I noticed on Lencos web site that they sell shims. They may be the same that Rinker has. It kind of makes sence I doubt that Rinker is the only boat where curvature of the hull would be a problem Now that I'm off the pain meds this is starting to make sense :lol:
Hope this helps
Steve
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by kcsteve » Logged

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slawson
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« Reply #48 on: March 06, 2006, 01:40:58 PM »

OK, that makes sense now.  It appears the shims will put the actuator away from the hull some to give clearance.  I think all the time we were discussing, we all thought the part of the hull where the tabs mount was the cuplret being curved...but as it looks in the picture, those are pretty straight.  Not having my boat here to look at made it tough to visualize.

SL
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by slawson » Logged
mwainsco@fdah.com
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« Reply #49 on: April 01, 2006, 07:31:58 PM »

Well...after reading all of the postings, I am a little confused.  I got a great deal on some Lenco 9 x 12's and was looking forward to installing them on my 212.  I am now wondering if I am going to have a difficult time getting them on.  I got the SIDE MOUNT version - is this the right one for a Rinker?  Also,  does anyone know how hard it is to run wires from the helm back to the tabs...  I am hoping there is an open channel going back to the motor so that I can snake the wires.  Any advice would be appreciated.  I only have 4 hours on this new boat and I was already a little nervous cutting holes into it.  Thanks.


Mark
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by mwainsco@fdah.com » Logged

2005 Rinker 212 owner
slawson
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« Reply #50 on: April 01, 2006, 08:21:04 PM »

I think running the wires would be the least of the problems.  Worst case is you disconnect a wire at the helm, pull it back with a string attached and then use that to pull wires back to the helm.   At this point with me the jury is still out.  I've talked to people (most I consider fairly knowing in this department) and they are about split on if a boat such as ours really needs tabs.  

If gas savings is the consideration...at the cost of tabs ($300+ even if a bargain on e-bay) and say a 10% gas savings....that would require us to use well over 1000 gallons of gas (and realize a 100 gallon savings at $3 a gallon gas) and so far in two seasons, I'd venture to say that I've burned 250 gallons....which would mean a 7 or 8 year 'payback' for the tabs.  I use this comparison as I recently bought a new tow vehicle that gets 15% better gas milage than previous, which I translate to $30 a month for the miles i drive and that DOES add up (and at the same monthly payment, I feel like I'm ahead and have a new truck and new warranty).

If performance is the goal, most have said that we can usually trim out our boats just fine with the drive trim.  Most if any of the tab use would be to put the bow DOWN (i.e. plane a little higher in the water it would seem to me) and for me that would only be at lower speeds.   Between other owners of similar boats and someone at Rinker....I might be convinced that drive trim might be all we need.

But as I said....the jury is still out....

Steve L.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by slawson » Logged
kcsteve
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« Reply #51 on: April 03, 2006, 10:20:45 AM »

Mark wiring should not be problem. I think the side mount should be okay but you might want to check with Lenco before you start the install. And I understand about the hole in the boat, just measure, measure, measure.

I think where people get hung about putting tabs on or not is the whole NEED issue. No mfg will admit that there mid size bowriders or cuddys NEED tabs. People who do not have tabs on there boats will never think that they NEED tabs because they've never had them. If you don't mind asking you overwieght MIL to move to the other side of the boat you don't NEED tabs. If you don't mind having 2 or 3 people move to the bow so you can plane out in under 10 sec you don't NEED tabs. NEED is a very subjective thing and some people don't need trim tabs

I sometimes push my boat to the edge of its limits and even beyond :shock:  Guess what you will not be able to get on plane. However if you have trim tabs you can get the boarder up and get on plane without any problem. I know this is true because I did it

Now someone will point out the obivous, the boat was exremely overloaded and you should never do this. When I did this we were experimenting with ballast to see how it would affect the wake and I DO NOT recommend nor do I do this under normal conditions

My point is that trim tabs will enhance the performance of a boat and it goes beyond keeping the bow down. They give me control of the running attitude of my boat, side to side, bow up or down, planing time and speed The admiral does say I'm a bit of a control freak :lol:

For me the tabs were well worth the money. For others it may be a waste. If your happy with the performance of your boat don't add tabs. If you want to push it to the edge add have more control you might want tabs. Its up to each person to decide for themselves.

Rant Off
Steve
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by kcsteve » Logged

2005 Rinker R2
capnkevin
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« Reply #52 on: May 10, 2006, 11:04:42 AM »

Very interesting post. My 2005 232 open bow tends to porpoise quite easily. Even with only 2 people on board. Giving strong consideration to adding a set of the lenco tabs with led controller.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by capnkevin » Logged

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Humvee13
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« Reply #53 on: May 25, 2006, 02:49:34 PM »

I just took the boat out today by myself there was a small chop and winds about 10 knots and man it was hard to keep the boat stable at speeds. I was by myself so had no weight in the front. Cant wait to get these tabs on soon! Any chance I had to start trimming and I would start to porpoise instantly.  Needless to say I was only out for about an hour because the tide was going out. But the fishfinder works great just not at higher speeds and I was surprised it had a temperature probe built into it for water temps.

I am wondering if I put 2 60lb sand bags in the front compartments if that will help out at all since I plan on soloing alot this year. Now sure how much weight the compartments can take with the bouncing. I used 5 60lb sand bags this winter for the back of my truck to keep it stable on the snow.
« Last Edit: December 31, 1969, 08:00:00 PM by Humvee13 » Logged

2005 232 BR 5.0 A1
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