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Rotting around 342 railing mounts - how best to fix?
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Topic: Rotting around 342 railing mounts - how best to fix? (Read 199 times)
dwmackenzie
Dock Hand
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Boat: Rinker 342 (2002)
Boat name: Canada's Navy
Posts: 21
Rotting around 342 railing mounts - how best to fix?
«
on:
January 12, 2012, 09:52:16 PM »
On the port side of my 2002 342 where the railing mounts to the deck I saw that the fiberglass was concave round two of the stantion mounts and discolored (black specks). On hot days in the summer I would see a pepsi colored fluid emerge from around the mount. I now have the railing unbolted from the boat (what a pain in the ass that was....glad to explain how to gain access to the nuts for the mounting bolts if you need) and can see that I have moisture in there and rotted core in the deck. Does anyone have any suggestion on how best to repair. I assume it is a matter of cutting out a section until I get good wood (which I am afraid that might be a big area) but any tips on how best to rebuild what I might cut out? The rest of the deck looks okay and feels okay so I assume that the fiberglass is giving it its strength (but fear that the wood core is shot).
All suggestions welcome.
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Lifes Good
Captain
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Location: Gig Harbor
Posts: 515
320 2006 Life's Good - OCEAN X!
Re: Rotting around 342 railing mounts - how best to fix?
«
Reply #1 on:
January 13, 2012, 12:36:25 AM »
I have been around boats my entire life and wood rot is a pain in the @ss. The cola color is the mosture coming back out since heat expands the water back out. More than likely, the vibration and wave pounding caused the bolts to back out slighty, then rain water works its way in and bam a couple of seasons later you have a problem. I pulled all the bolts on mine and recaulked just to be sure since Rinker uses poor performing caulk.
Here are two options .
1) If the glass on top and inside are still in good shape and If you can get to all the wood from inside the boat then dig it ALL out. It's a cancer and will spead if left in. Cut a new piece of marine plywood to fill and use 5200 "quick dry" foruma to glue it back in. If you can apply pressure to the wood against the glass for 24 hours, it would be best. Gorilla Glue works really good too but won't seal out the water from above. Then use 4200 "quick dry" formula to set the stantion and bolts.
2) If the glass is in poor shape then I'd higher a glass guy to cut the infected area out and rebuild the area. If he/she is good you won't even know there was ever a problem. Might set you back about $600-$800, mostly Labor.
LG
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