Oil, Oil filters, change intervals?

[Sea Saw]

I wanted start a thread about small maintenance projects. Just want to hear what you use or do when it comes to regular planned maintenance on your boats.

I am a firm believer in OEM spare parts. Mercury/Mercruiser oils, filters, all original stuff is best in my opinion. No mater what brand of power plant I have always had the best luck with OEM parts.

What do you guys think?

Oil change intervals: I change my oil every 50Hrs or middle and the end of the boating season. I also change my fuel filter at the same time.

Is this to frequently?

Alot of boaters at the marina change thier oil in the spring when they summerize. This does not suit me as I would rather get the old oil out before the lay up.

Synthetic oil in amrine application?

Fuel treatments? I use Stabil for my lay up and Lucas during the season.
The Lucas is increadable in my opinion.

What do you guys use?

[slawson]

I have what some may consider an unusual pattern, but I've had no problems doing it this way.  In the fall, when I winterize, I change filters and oil, using just a 'normal' kind of oil (i.e. the $1.19 Penzoil or something like that).  I change the stuff, run the motor some to get it flowing everywhere, fog the engine and that's that.  Then in the spring, I'll fire up the motor to run the oil around again and get it warmed up.  Then I drain that oil and put in what I consider the 'running' oil.  Currently I use Valvoline Racing Oil (available at NAPA in our area).  I've considered Mobil 1 as I use that in my Hemi PU, but given the change interval anyway, dino oil is fine for the boat.  The oil I pull from the motor then finds it's way into my lawn tractor, generator (household), lawn mower and other small oil users around the house.  I'd be buying oil for them anyway.  My rationale is putting in the 'new' oil and running for maybe 15-20 minutes will get things inside the motor cleaned out pretty good and leave as good of a film on everything for the layup period.  Running in the spring will both again 'clean' the parts and warm it up enough to flow thru the drain tube more easily.  I and others never have had a problem with the Valvoline Racing oil in hi performance automotive applications..so there's a trust factor there that it will protect the motor better than the 'cheaper' stuff.

Also use Stabil in all gasses over the winter (tractor, motorcycles, boat, etc).  Never had a varnish problem when using that....don't use it....and motorcycle carbs get real ugly real fast.

Never used the Lucas product mentioned....tell me more  

Steve L.

[nwaring]

I changed and lubed everything at year-end.  I did use all genuine Merc products for all.  I probably will only do 50 engine hours this summer so I don’t know if I will do anything in-between.  

What do you guys do with your gas filter?  I have what I think they call the 3rd generation setup.  It involves taking things apart and appears it will be VERY difficult on the 250 because of engine room access (lack of).

Niles

[merwin10]

Yep! Change all oil's and filters every 50 Hours, and then again just before winterizing. I always use Valvoline Oil's Had the best luck with them. Everything gets Stabil gas treatment for the winter with full tanks. Fog oil goes in the engine before winter. Then everything gets a lite once over with WD40. Batteries come out and go to the shop on the battery table for the winter. FWC system gets drained and replaced every other season, by the way here I drain from the lower block drains just to get any sediments that might collect there. Oil cooler and heat exchangers get reversed flushed you be surprized at the stuff that collects there that the sea strainer misses. Repalce all the engine zincs. Every year the engine gets new plugs cap and rotor.

Some of the other maintenance things I do because I use the boat in salt water only! I replace these items very three years, risers, raw water impeller, themostat, all exhaust clamps, belts, and plug wires. I have three battery banks and replace one every year, so the batteries are never more than 3 years old. I do this because it seems to work the best overall for me and keeps on the water rather than strained somewhere!

Mike -

[Ronnie]

I use OEM stuff   I havent put 100 hrs on in a season so I've been servicing in the spring . It stays in the water all winter,I fill up &put stabil or merc fuel stabilizer in the fuel before winter,& it pretty much lasts the whole winter , if I dont take the boat out I will at least run it for 10-15 minutes every 2or3 weekends, I guess getting behind the engine & greasing the coupler a few extra times a season wont hurt either, I've seen too many strip out from lack of grease

[Craig]

With all my boats over they years, I have changed the oil & filters at the end of the season. Never had a problem. If I boated all year I would do it in the middle and at the end of the season or every 40-60 hrs. I do use oem parts.

[Relentless]

Merwin10

Be careful with the WD40.  Although it is a great rust inhibitor, and bolt loosen upper, it is NOT a lubricant.  In fact, it braks down lubricating fluids.

But that's just my 2 cents,  It also breaks down insulation ratings of wires and cables over time.

[Talon]

I'll be having my first service (50 hours) at some point over the next couple weeks. Since I'm 30 minutes away from the boat and don't want give up my weekend time on the boat, I just pay to have them serviced for me.

[BigSioux232]

I never accrue enough hours to change midseason and I change oil, oil filter and fuel filter at the end of the season during my winterization process.  I don't want those acids sitting in the engine all winter long.  

I typically use the OEM (Merc or Volvo) oil just so that if there is some sort of catastrophic internal failure, it eliminates them putting blame on the oil.  I did use Amsoil's marine/diesel 15w40 synthetic in my previous VP for a season or two after getting a blessing in writing from VP.  

This year, I did sort of what Steve L. does (changing fall and then spring) for a couple of reasons.  I just bought the boat in mid-November and I didn't know what the previous owner had in there and I'm using the dipstick tube pump to change the oil, so I know I'm not getting all of the old oil out.  So I just put some plain old Valvoline SAE 30 in there now to "wash it out", but will change over to the Merc oil in the spring.  I've since figured out that I have the Merc oil drain tube so I'll drain her dry in the spring before adding the Merc oil.

Dave

[Sea Saw]

I forgot to mention that I grease the engine coupler and gimbal bearing monthly during the boating season. My dealer claims that these two areas are the most neglected and very expensive to replace.

The Lucas fuel treatment is a product that alot of trukers use in thier semi's. I have used in my vehicles for along time, with excellent results. I typically put 1 quart of the fuel traetment in the boat once a month.

here is a link to Lucas:
 
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... 2&loc=show

They have all kinds of other stuff available, but this is the only product I use.

I am considering replacing my flame arrest air filter with a K&N filter this spring.

Link to K & N:

http://www.knpowersports.com/marine/default.htm

Any one have one?

[CRF]

I put a K & N filter on my last boat after the warranty (one yr) was over.
If nothing else you get filtered air instead of regular air thru the flame arrestor. I may have seen a slight power increase, certainly no less power. I had to make 2 of the 3 attachments myself, as K&N only made one of the 2 tube adapters, and nothing for the sensor to be suspended on.
I would not do it again without all 3 (or however many you need) parts being provided from K&N. Dont let anyone tell you they arent CG approved, they are UL approved & that is sufficient