shower pump problem - '94 265 Fiesta Vee

[mg2006]

Hello, sorry if this is a little long winded but I want to give as much info as I know about this problem.

I purchased this boat last week so don't know the full history on her. I discovered that the shower pump wasn't working at all when flicking the switch located inside the head. After finding the wiring for the switch and associated fuse I found that a ground wire was broken off the switch terminal and the fuse was missing from the 12V wire. The first time I had a look at her I noticed there was a blown 10A fuse loose in the bottom of the stove and didn't think anything of it, I now believe this is the fuse that was used for the shower pump.

After finding another 10A fuse and connecting the ground wire to the switch terminal and flicking the pump switch the pump kicked into life but hardly drained any water from the bottom of the head area, also when flicking the switch to OFF a red fluid bubbles through the plug hole.

The sound coming from the shower pump doesn't appear strained and sounds not much different to the water or bilge pump.

I will post an update on this when I get a final solution, in the mean time does anyone know what the red stuff could be? It looked like something you'd see in a horror movie, I half expected to turn the shower on and red stuff to come out of that too.  

[nwaring]

Red stuff...sounds like the pink RV antifreeze used to winterize.  I know...I have like 10 gallons in my system.
Good luck
Niles

[Talon]

That's my guess as well. Either that or the boat used to belong to a real nut job - have you checked the bilge for body parts?  

[merwin10]

Well the shower pump is an enclosed bilge pump in a plastic box with a float switch. When the water rises in the plastic box the pump is suppose to come on and pump the water overboard. How this says that the plastic box must be lower than the shower drain since it is gravity drain.

What usually happens is the drain gets plugged with stuff like soap and hair. Since the drain is so close to the bottom if the boat it make a sharp 90 turn just under the fiberglass enclosure. here is where stuff gets trapped.

The chrome strainer usually screws on from the shower side with a gasket to the elbow under the shower enclosure. Here in lies a problem you may not be able to get to the elbow. If you pull it out you may not be able to get it back in, look carefully before removing it to be sure you can get it back on.

As for the red fluid most likely non-toxic antifreeze.

Although this style shower pump is used through out the industry it is problematic. I replaced mind with a small positive displacement style pump that you turn on when you shower and off when your done. It has fewer problems and less smell. Since the plastic box style uses a float switch it never completely drains the plastic box so you are left with shower water in the bottom. It starts to smell after a while. Also since it is a bilge type pump, centrifugal type, the water in the discharge tube comes back into the box when the pump shuts off, backwash, just like a bilge pump, because that is what it really is.

Clean the drain and hose going to the pump. Remove and clean the pump and box. You might want so rubber gloves for this it is a pretty gross job and you never know what the previous owner might have washed down the shower drain.

A bit long but wanted you to have all the info:


Mike -  

[mg2006]

thanks for the replies, shame about the antifreeze as it would have been a good talking point to have a haunted boat.

If it is crap blocking the pipes and I can't get access to it is there a solution to pour down that won't lines and pump?

[merwin10]

I would be careful with any thing to disvolve the plugged drain. you may end up eating up the plastic drain, hose and pump box!

If your boat is like the rest I have seen the two bottom steps can be removed. There are screws from both sides and the bottom and they just lift out! You should be able to see the pump and drain hose.

Mike -

[Captains Call]

When I purchased my 94 265 last year i ran into the exact same problem. The dealer had winterized everything and that included putting some pink rv antifreeze into the shower drain. There was approx 2 inches of antifreeze sitting in the drain all winter. So, when spring came i flipped the drain switch, the pump came on and pulled the level down only about an inch. So, i investigated a bit. The pump is actually under the sink in this model. All you have to do is remove the screws that hold the cabinet into the sink fixture and you will see it back there. I removed the entire pump assembly. It was easy. Remove wires and both hoses and 2 screws that mount it. I the took the pump inside and removed the screws that hold the head on the pump. Took it all part. Cleaned all of the nasty stuff that you would expect to find in a shower drain plus some wire insulation out of the pump. Reassembled and reinstalled. It works great. However, there has to be a certain amount of water in the drain system to work. I don't know if it loses its prime or what, but once it gets going it is fine!!

Hope this helps. May not be your exact problem but it is what i found on my boat!!

[merwin10]

Exactly, it does loose it prime. Or better stated it must be submerged in water just like a bilge pump! Ever notice your bilge pump when the water gets low and it starts sucking air, that is because it is a centrifugal type pump (ie not positive displacement). Bilge pump of this design can't pump air, likewise when you turn them off they tend to backwash, that is any water in the hose leading overboard comes back to the bilge once the air is suck up. The impeller has to be underwater to prime with no air sucking in.

As you know from cleaning the plastic box out the bottom it is pretty grimmy! That is from the backwash! Once you use the shower the backwash is always there! As the water evaporates the soap hair and etc just sits on the bottom of the box.

Mike -  

[Captains Call]

Mike,

If i am not mistaken the 265 has an unusual set up for the shower drain. There is a hose that leads from the drain up to the pump then out the through hull. On mine there is no box and bilge pump. It is an external pump. I am pretty sure this was the factory set up but i have been wrong before!!!  

Anyone else worked on their 265 drains??

[Talon]

Can't help with that one - I don't mind working on my boat at all, in fact I find it relaxing. The only exception is plumbing of any sort. I don't do it at the house and I've already told the admiral that I won't be doing it on the boat

[mg2006]

Captains Call, thanks for the info on access to the pump. Today I took a hose and ran water through the system from the plug hole and the extra water pressure seems to have cleared the blockage although it doesn't pump water out at a rate faster than the shower provides water so I think I'll now do what you did and take the whole thing apart and see if that helps.

[Captains Call]

FYI- when you take the pump apart be very careful to take notice of how it came apart so you reassemble it correctly. There aren't that many parts but i am sure it can be put back together incorrectly!! (Trust me i know!) Be sure to remove all of the hair and other stuff that gets stuck in the pump body!! I found alot of things that you wouldnt expext to find. There was wire insulation, silicone caulking, and some small glass like particles.
After i put mine back together all clean it kept up with the shower flow very well. Like i said there does have to be a certain amount of water in the drain before it will begin to flow but once it starts it will be fine!!
Good luck!!!!!